Story and Photos by Celina Colby

Cerulean Farm in Shelbyville, Kentucky, sits at the end of a gated drive lined with maple trees. The historic horse farm, dating back to the 1860s, is now a charming bed and breakfast and the home base of a nonprofit that rescues horses from difficult circumstances.

Cerulean encapsulates the magic of Shelby County: it’s rich in history, spilling over with natural beauty, and it’s female-owned. It turns out, women run Shelby County and the region is better off for it. We’re not just talking girl power bumper stickers and power suits. A visit to Shelby County inevitably means benefiting from the hard work and kindness of the female entrepreneurs dotting the district.

Shelby County is conveniently located 40 minutes from Louisville and an hour from Lexington. It’s smack dab in the middle of the Bourbon Trail and is home to a number of distilleries, including Bulleit. With just shy of 100,000 people, it’s the largest of Kentucky’s 95 counties and it strikes a perfect balance between expansive farmlands and urban conveniences like tasteful accommodations and au current restaurants.

Strolling along Main Street in Shelbyville, a boulevard so scenic it practically looks like it’s a movie set, visitors will take in the warm sunshine and note the beautiful dogwood trees lining the sidewalk. Those very dogwood trees are the subject of a town-wide festival in April featuring local craft vendors and artists, live music and delectable Southern cuisine.

A picture-perfect scene like this could only benefit from one thing: ice cream. Well, gelato to be more specific. Spotz Gelato is nestled in the heart of downtown and it’s pretty hard to miss. The bright pink polka-dotted interior is topped only by the taste of their award-winning banana pudding flavor. Owner Beth Richardson pioneered Spotz out of love for the depth of flavor found in gelato and the special charm of small-town ice cream shops. She now operates six locations in Kentucky, one in Las Penitas, Nicaragua, and a fleet of mobile gelato trucks, wagons and bikes.

Derby Hats and Horses
Once your sweet tooth is satisfied, pop across the street to The Polkadotted Pineapple Boutique. There’s no doubt you’re in Kentucky when you stroll into this women’s clothing boutique, because every spare corner or mannequin is sporting an elaborate Kentucky Derby hat. Shop owner Dori Lewis makes many of the hats herself, piling feathers and flowers onto fascinators in true Derby style. The tradition of wearing hats to the famous horse race was brought over to the U.S. from English and French horse races and some say the bigger the hat, the bigger the luck.

But long before you don your Derby hat and order a mint julep, the horses that race the Derby are training. Melanie Defler, owner of West Meadow Farm in Eminence, has been training thoroughbred winners for years. Visitors can tour the farm and meet some of the soon-to-be Derby competitors. Though Defler breeds and houses race horses, she also accepts rescues and finds new careers for horses that are past their racing prime.

The Derby is an important part of Kentucky’s history and culture, but some of the side effects have been less than productive. Jeanette Aumon, the owner of Cerulean Farm, is using her own rescue program not only to rehabilitate horses but also to preserve original horse breeds. Native quarter horses are much healthier in their original foundation breed than when bred with thoroughbreds in order to race. Watching so many happy horses gallop across Aumon’s fields, it’s hard to believe some of them could barely walk when they arrived in her care.

Not all souvenirs from this trip are horses’ kisses and dusty boots. The Shoppes at Blue Gables is a complex of small shops by local vendors and artists. Built in an old motel compound, the shops include clothing, handmade bath products, an art gallery and much more. Shelby County is also home to The Outlet Shoppes of the Bluegrass, the only outlet in the entire state.

Bourbon? Of Course!
Alternatively, you could bring home a bottle of bourbon. After all, is it really Kentucky if you haven’t sipped a locally made Old Fashioned? Jeptha Creed is a unique stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour. Co-owned by master distiller mom Joyce Nethery and marketing manager daughter Autumn Nethery, the bourbon is distilled from bloody butcher corn grown by the Nethery family. The red corn, an unusual style for bourbon distilling, adds a richness of flavor to the beverage.

Start your visit to Jeptha Creed with a barrel tasting. You’ll be brought out to the barrel rooms where all the bourbons age. Sitting in leather armchairs, wrapped in furs in the cooler months, you’ll sample limited edition bourbons and learn about the company’s history. If you visit on a Sunday, Jeptha Creed’s lavish brunch Bloody Mary is a must. It comes with the distillery’s hot pepper vodka and enough skewered food to feed four people. Your Instagram will never be the same.

Back at Cerulean Farm you can nap off your trip along the bourbon trail or enjoy tea and homemade cookies on the year round porch. Aumon may join you to check in on your stay or she may be out caring for her horses, photographing local animals, educating students about equine health and generally saving the world. That’s women’s work in Shelby County.

visitshelbyky.com

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Atlanta has almost an embarrassing amount of fun things to do. From professional and college sports teams, to world-class museums, to parks, innovative restaurants, the BeltLine to concerts and festivals, we humbly admit that we have it all.

And, now even more! Yes, a number of new and exciting restaurants and activities have entered the city so that no matter where one is located — Westside, Eastside, Midtown, Buckhead and Downtown — there is more to do than ever to have a great time in the ATL.

RESTAURANTS
Atlanta has a firm grasp on what’s happening in the restaurant biz. First off, let’s congratulate Terry Koval of the Deer and the Dove for being awarded the Restaurant industry’s Oscar. Koval was just named the 2023 Best Chef Southeast by the James Beard Foundation. Other local 2023 James Beard semi-finalists include: Clinton Gray, Derrick Moore and Emanuel Reed for Slim & Husky’s Pia Berria, Lyla Lila (for its wine program); Ticonderoga Club (hospitality); Buena Gente Cuban Bakery; and Ronald Hsu and Aaron Phillips (Lazy Betty), Jiyeon Lee and Cody Taylor (Heirloom Market BBQ), Sahar Siddiqi (Chai Pani) and Deborah VanTrece (Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours).

Among the big news for the area was the opening of Nobu, the famous celebrity-favored sushi restaurant, and the Nobu Atlanta hotel. Both became instant hits among locals and outof-towners. Nobu is located across from Phipps Plaza, one of the country’s most exclusive shopping malls, which recently underwent a renovation. Part of the renovation was the recently opened Citizens Market Atlanta, a 25,000-square-foot immersive culinary destination that includes a culinary market with eight chef-driven brands and a full, indoor and outdoor bar. The variety of food offerings are fast casual options ranging from modern American to Asian-fusion.

Speaking of celebrities, Marcus Samuelsson, the acclaimed chef behind restaurants including the Red Rooster Harlem, and winner of eight James Beard Foundation awards, recently opened Marcus Bar & Grille, which serves elevated comfort classics and signature dishes. Located in the funky neighborhood of Edgewood Avenue (don’t forget to go to the nearby Sister Louisa’s Church of the Living Room & Ping Pong Emporium), the restaurant shows why Samuelsson has prepared dishes for former President Obama.

We’re excited by downtown’s R3 Rosendale Concepts, a restaurant by award-winning and Certified Master Chef® Rich Rosendale (only one of 72 in the country) with menus inspired from local cuisine, seasonal ingredients and the personal experiences of the R3 team. Everything about the restaurant is impeccable: the flexible and creative menu, the service as well as the decor. There’s also live music every night.

Deborah VanTrece continued her history of fabulous restaurants with the opening of La Panarda, which showcases her love of Italian cuisine, in the revitalizing Cascade Heights area. Follow the yellow brick road (literally) to Amore e Amore, a Ponce Highland restaurant that takes its themes, well, very seriously. Currently it’s a Wizard of Oz theme, complete with Dorothy, the Tin Man and lots of Wicked Witch hats decoratively and literally filling every inch of this great Italian restaurant. Themes change, so you must keep going back.

Other new restaurants making waves are: Zakia Modern Lebanese Restaurant in Buckhead, Brassica in the Waldorf Astoria, Wicked Wolf Sports Pub & Club and Johnny’s Chicken & Waffles, both in Midtown. Last but not least, we need to give a nod to the Fishmonger, named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants, with two locations.

Check out the Summerhill neighborhood near the former Turner Field, (now the Georgia State Stadium) for a variety of great food and drink options such as Little Bear for international fare, Wood’s Chapel BBQ or Halfway Crooks Beer for great craft beer.

Of course, we can never forget Atlanta’s favorites including the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, the Livingston Restaurant & Bar (which re-opened after three years), Bazati on the BeltLine, Ray’s in the City, Aria, Thumbs Up Diner, The Optimist, Atlas, and Nan Thai Fine Dining.

ENTERTAINMENT
Pullman Yards, in the Kirkwood neighborhood, has come on strong lately as a fun spot with two great restaurants (Fishmonger and Dailies & Sides), pickleball, as well as concerts, and special events such as Jurassic World the Exhibition. But its latest addition is AlcoHall, a food hall for drinks. AlcoHall features seven stalls with different alcohol brands offering everything from wine, whiskey to beers on tap.

Föwling Warehouse, located on the Westside, is the only place in Georgia to play föwling, a combination football, bowling and horseshoe game. There’s also a great bar, games, pub food and has a dog-friendly outdoor patio. Located at The Works on the Westside, Your 3rd Spot has it all — great food and drinks and games — lots of games — more than 80, in fact. Explore the shops, restaurants and activities over at Atlantic Station.

PuttShack in the Interlock complex on the Westside still delights with tech-infused mini golf and great food and drinks. While on the roof is L.O.A. Rooftop, which offers some of the best views of the city, a beautiful pool (day pass or membership pass) and Restaurant L.O.A., a fantastic restaurant. Other new entertainment entries into Atlanta include the Sloomoo Institute, a slime and sensory play experience, Painted Pickle, a boutique bowling bar, Beat the Bomb and Flight Club Atlanta, an interactive social darts destination.

Explore the wonders of the ocean at the Georgia Aquarium where you can have an immersive shark, sea lion and ray interactions. The Aquarium inspires, educates and entertains guests about aquatic biodiversity through its hundreds of exhibits and tens of thousands of animals across seven galleries.

Westside Motor Lounge is a dynamic indoor-outdoor culinary and entertainment experience near the Westside BeltLine Connector. Westside Motor Lounge is an adaptive resuse project that features a restaurant We could go on and on… but we really (honestly) don’t want to brag.

Be sure to explore bustling Brookhaven where you will find a wealth of locally owned restaurants, exceptional shops and a vibrant arts scene. Don’t miss the opportunity to shop at Brookhaven’s Farmer’s Market. Open every Saturday morning, 9AM – 12PM at 1375 Fernwood Circle NE, 30319, stalls are filled with fresh fruits, vegetables and more. Brookhaven also sports Food Truck Nights. Join the crowds flocking to try the fare on the last Wednesday of the month and enjoy live music, food trucks, and activities for the kids. Be sure to bring blankets and chairs and check the weather before you head out.

Trendy restaurants, including Haven and Petite Violette, savvy shops and a fabulous vibe make Brookhaven the place to see and be see.

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By Celina Colby

It’s hard to get more quintessential New England than Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The charming town is lined with cobblestone and brick streets, local boutiques, and buildings dating back as far as the 1600s. Restaurants offer up mayo-dressed lobster rolls and clam chowder and the residents have swapped pilgrim collars for Patriots caps.

Located directly on the water, this is an ideal spring and summer getaway when the brilliant yellow forsythia buds are beginning to bloom. Portsmouth is just an hour by bus or car from Bah-stun and most of the same slang applies. Called “one of the most culturally rich destinations” by Dozen Distinctive Destinations, Portsmouth’s history comes alive while seamlessly blending in the modern. A historic working seaport, Portsmouth features art galleries, jazz clubs, chef-owned restaurants, breweries and beautiful red brick buildings. Portsmouth takes pride in the fact that almost all of the shops downtown are independently owned. Did we mention that downtown’s shops are tax free?

For historical background, the Strawberry Banke Museum is a must. Though it’s dubbed a museum, it’s really a 10-acre campus illustrating what life was like for the original native inhabitants and early settlers of Portsmouth. You can tour historic homes and gardens, chat with costumed performers, and engage in hands-on crafting.

But in the spring particularly the Wentworth-Coolidge mansion is an unparalleled way to experience historic Portsmouth. The 18th-century house sits right on the banks of the Portsmouth Harbor on a sprawling property that bursts with vibrant blooming flowers in May and June. You can tour the mansion and learn about upper-crust life in the 1700s, but it’s also a beautiful spot to picnic at and enjoy the waterfront views.

Portsmouth offers a variety of lodging. Hotel Thaxter, newly opened on Middle Street in a former church from the 1860s, provides both the comforts of a modern boutique hotel and a strong connection to Portsmouth’s rich history. The property is named for Celia Thaxter, a writer, painter, and recreational botanist who established one of the first artist colonies in Portsmouth. Plants were one of Thaxter’s passions and her green thumb is evidenced all over the hotel: in the floral printed chairs of the library, the faux flowers outside each room that indicate a guest’s cleaning preference, and the copies of Thaxter’s books that live in each room like a botanical bible.

Local hospitality guru Amanda McSharry, who created the property with her husband, Jay, felt a kinship with Thaxter who was a pioneering creative in her time and the passion for this project is evident in every detail.

In addition to creature comforts, Hotel Thaxter is home to an innovative Japanese restaurant, Nichinan. Here you can sip craft cocktails and sample wagyu beef in a chic, art decoinspired space. The new Sailmaker’s House, Wentworth By The Sea, The Hotel Portsmouth, Water Street Inn, the Ale House and the historic 360-year-old Three Chimneys Inn in nearly Durham, each offer their own charm that will make any visit special. In addition, there are plenty of national hotel chains available.

Though charm and history run heavy in Portsmouth, the contemporary flourishes too. 3S Artspace is a dynamic nonprofit performance and visual art space near the water. The robust events calendar includes film screenings, live music, performance art, hands-on creative workshops like ink painting, and much more. The space has also become a meeting group for other community events like clothing swaps.

Modern innovation has reached the hospitality industry here as well. The Inn Downtown is part of a group of apart-hotels pioneered by local entrepreneur Doug Palardy. These accommodations are like studio apartments, with efficiency (and sometimes full) kitchens, sitting and sleeping areas, and spacious well-appointed bathrooms. This makes them convenient for both short- and long-term stays.

The Inn is also completely self-managed. Guests are given a code at check-in for their rooms and check in and out independently. The rooms and common areas are cleaned but there’s no central lobby or desk staff. This worked well as a safety precaution during the COVID-19 pandemic but that kind of mobility and independence has remained popular with young travelers.

This property is located directly in the heart of downtown Portsmouth for easy walking access to just about everything, but sister property Great Island Inn down the road in New Castle provides more of a beach experience.

Portsmouth, New Hampshire, strikes a special balance between urban hotel amenities and cuisine and coastal small-town history and charm. It has many of the conveniences and luxuries you might find in Boston and all of that quaintness you’ll find in Bar Harbor.

When you visit take advantage of all there is to do, but don’t forget to take a page out of Celia Thaxter’s book and stop to smell the flowers.

goportsmouthnh.com

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Story and Photos by Celina Colby

New England’s coastal beauty is best experienced in multiples. Multiple oysters, multiple scenic walks along rocky shores, multiple encounters with plaid-clad locals at the Main Street watering hole. Why stop at just one charming, historic town when you can soak up three over the course of the week? The New England Coastal Road Trip package put together by Colwen Hotels allows lobster lovers to experience three quintessential New England towns in one go.

First Stop: Portland
You can structure your trip however you’d like, but we recommend starting north and working your way down the coast. Check in at the Portland Harbor Hotel, a charming and luxurious property nestled in the heart of the city’s historic Old Port district. Decorated in the rich navy blue, red and cream colors of the region, the property is at once cozy and upscale. Highlights of the experience include the lavish breakfast menu served in the restaurant or via room service and the outdoor fire pit that warms travelers year-round.

From the Portland Harbor Hotel it’s an easy walk to the best Portland has to offer. The foodie city is bursting with vibrant culinary experiences. Obviously, you’re going to want to try some of that famous Maine lobster. Head to Eventide Oyster Co. for an upscale, avant-garde experience featuring a huge selection of oysters and a bao-style bun for your lobster roll. Or keep it classic by grabbing a mayo-soaked roll from the Portland Lobster Company and eating it overlooking the water. You can literally watch fishermen pull lobsters out of the water while you eat one. That’s the kind of voyeurism we can get into.

Don’t skimp on culture at this stop as the Portland Museum of Art offers a dynamic collection of local and national artists. Throw any preconceived notions you have of Maine art out the window. Boat paintings be gone. History buffs will also love a tour of Victoria Mansion, a uniquely preserved slice of architectural and regional history.

At each stop along the road trip, you’ll find a package of local snacks in your room to get you in the New England mood. While you stroll the streets of Portland you can nibble on sweet blueberry popcorn and sip a cold root beer.

Second Stop: Portsmouth
Drive (or take the regional bus) just an hour south from Portland to Portsmouth, NH, another quintessential coastal New England town with roots back to the early 1600s. You can’t get much more early-America than that.

Though the city retains its historic charm, we promise there have been significant comfort upgrades since the Pilgrims rolled up to the Portsmouth shore. For example, instead of roughing it like the Pilgrims did, you can now stay in the comfort of the AC Hotel Portsmouth. Don’t be fooled by the Marriott parentage of this hotel, it’s chic with a capital “C” sporting a clean-lined black lobby with multiple gas fireplaces and an upgraded fitness center where you can stream stationary bike classes in a private spin room. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy dinner or a drink in the rooftop restaurant overlooking the Old Harbor.

You’ll want to engage in a New England pastime, strolling down Main Street, or in Portsmouth’s case, Market Street. It’s here that you’ll find a plethora of unique, local shops and restaurants. Those with a penchant for the literary should head to Book & Bar for a cocktail or a coffee and an afternoon of browsing through shelves of used books. Pickwick’s Mercantile is a vintage-y gift shop nodding to Portsmouth’s rich history and offering locally made cards, candles, and other goods.

Top off your evening with an innovative meal on a haute cuisine level but served up in a comfortable, casual environment at Raleigh Wine Bar. The enthusiastic team can recommend a different, unique wine to match each course. After all, you need to be fortified for the final leg of your trip.

Third Stop: Boston
Another hour in the car or on a bus and you’ll find yourself in Paul Revere’s very own hometown. Well, close by anyway. For the third stop on the New England Coastal Road Trip you’re based at The Row Hotel in Somerville, just outside Boston on the Cambridge side. The artistic and contemporary hotel is located in a newly built complex of shops, art installations, restaurants and entertainment called Assembly Row.

The complex is located right at an MBTA subway stop so you can easily pop into Boston proper for a Red Sox game or a stroll along the Freedom Trail. Satiate your cravings for local oysters and classic clam chowder at Salt and Stone just around the corner from The Row Hotel or just sip craft cocktails at the restaurant’s Instagram-worthy midcentury style bar overlooking their woodfired oven. Further down the street, pop into All She Wrote Books, a local bookshop highlighting historically underrepresented authors, like women, LGBTQIA+ and POC writers. Take your new reading material back to the hotel and enjoy it while lounging by the petite but beautifully decorated indoor pool.

The location of The Row Hotel offers visitors the opportunity to encounter as much or as little of the traditional Boston experience as they’d like. You can go into town every day for classic Boston moments like a walk through Harvard Yard or a Duck Boat tour around the city. Or you can lay low in Somerville’s Assembly Row neighborhood, prioritizing relaxation at the end of your road trip.

The New England Coastal Road Trip caters to the foodie, the shopper, the action-packed tourist and the poolside lounger alike. No matter what your interests, you’ll leave the region pronouncing car as “cah.”

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Story by Jeffrey Willis • Photos by Juan Iucciolino

Argentina didn’t need a World Cup victory to put it back on the international radar, but it sure didn’t hurt.

While the country’s pride and passion were on full display for the world to see, this was just the tip of the iceberg (literally, but we will get to that a bit later) for this culture-rich, panoramic nation.

And let’s just get something out of the way up front. Argentina is big; it’s the eighth largest country in the world. Being able to travel from tropical to Arctic climates all within the same country is amazing but takes planning, especially if you are packing it all into two weeks.

Travel Girl Tip: Assuming you are planning to visit multiple locations, use an Argentine-based travel agent to arrange your full itinerary and for better rates.

Something in the “Good Airs”
There is definitely something in the air of Buenos Aires. The capital city is the starting point for any trip in Argentina. While often called the Paris of the South, it has a style that is very much its own.

Buenos Aires is divided into 48 different neighborhoods or barrios with each offering something unique. Recoleta is one of our favorite neighborhoods to stay. Upscale and with many of the top attractions, it is also easy to navigate to other sections of the city.

If there is one attraction you must visit in Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery would be it. While mesmerizing, eerie and important (you can cry for Evita here), you also might spot some neighborhood kids playing hide and seek.

A few other areas to make sure you explore are:
• San Telmo: This historic neighborhood feels as if it is the cultural heartbeat of the city.
• Palermo: Hip and trendy, you will not run out of options to explore.
• La Boca: Keep to the touristy area, which is instantly recognizable with the colorful painted houses.
• San Nicolas: The world’s widest avenue is lined with can’t miss shops, theaters, Argentine-style pizzerias and the famous Obelisco or obelisk.

Travel Girl Tip: With Buenos Aires as your main travel hub, find a hotel that will hold a bag for you between stays. Also check carry-on bag size restrictions for domestic flights within Argentina. Sizes are typically smaller than that allowed in the U.S.

The Sheer Magnitude
As we flew north from Buenos Aires, nothing could prepare us for the experience of Iguazu Falls. To be honest, when we were told we would need two days to take in the falls, we weren’t convinced. Wrong!

Iguazu Falls is one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature and is the largest waterfall system in the world. Straddling the Argentina-Brazil boarder, Iguazu Falls is made up of roughly 275 different falls.

There are several ways to experience the falls with each capturing more of its full wonder. Hiking the different paths and bridges around the falls offered access to all the breathtaking vistas. Next, we got a bird’s eye view from a helicopter ride over the falls. This was truly the only way to take in the full expanse. And finally, after a short 4×4 ride through the jungle, we hopped aboard a speed boat to the center of it all.

Wine-ing Down
After the adventure of Iguazu Falls, we needed a counterbalance. Our next stop was Mendoza, home of the Malbec, a red intense wine.

Mendoza itself is a lively city with celebrated plazas marking different neighborhoods. It’s easy to enjoy al fresco dining alongside historic architecture and renowned Argentine leather shops.

But the biggest draw for most tourists is the abundant wineries. Located at the foothills of the Andes, the highaltitude region produces world-class wines alongside worldclass views.

Panoramic Patagonia
After leaving Mendoza, we were back in Buenos Aires to change out bags for the second part of our Argentina adventure and an Arctic blast. And a blast it was!

From Buenos Aires we flew into El Calafate, a charming city dotting the steppe-like plains of Patagonia. Located along the southern border of Lake Argentino, even landing at the airport we were gobsmacked by the beauty outside our window.

Calafate itself often felt more like a quaint artisan village than the self-sufficient city it is. While here, make sure to pick up some homemade jelly made from the berry for which the city got its name. The berry, by the way, looks like a blueberry but tastes more like a black currant. And while Argentina is known for its beef, once in the south, lamb becomes the focus for both the fiber arts (such as weaving and knitting) and restaurants.

The most important attraction in this area is Los Glaciares National Park and the Perito Moreno Glacier. Located about 50 miles from Calafate, this is one of the largest and most accessible glaciers in the world — as well as one of only a few glaciers not shrinking. After viewing it from the surrounding platforms, make sure to take a boat ride to get a closer look at the vivid blue hues.

End of the World
From El Calafate, we headed further south, and based on the name of every tourist attraction, we arrived at the “end of the world.” As one of five internationally recognized Antarctic gateway cities, Ushuia is a hub for tourists and adventure seekers.

Tierra del Fuego National Park is just outside of Ushuia and can be reached by vehicle or (of course) by the “Train of the End of the World”. The stunning subantarctic landscape is also where the Pan-American Highway originates. An excursion to Isla Martillo for an encounter with Magellanic, Gentoo, and even King penguins was a true highlight. As a working nature reserve, make a reservation for this guided tour because the number of visitors allowed on the island is limited.

A Natural Wonder
From the end of the world back to the real world, we flew from Ushuia to Buenos Aires for one final weekend and one final toast of Malbec to a country that truly seems to have it all.

And what’s nice is that the Argentines recognize this. From the city to the tropics to the Arctic, the common thread that you will encounter in Argentina is that they want you to love it as much as they do. That pride, that passion, that welcoming spirit, it can often get lost in our world today. Not in Argentina.

But then again you already saw that on full display after the World Cup win. Yet, we can vouch that it is even better in person.

www.argentina.travel/en; Viajemos Turismo

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