Story and Photos by Celina Colby

Cerulean Farm in Shelbyville, Kentucky, sits at the end of a gated drive lined with maple trees. The historic horse farm, dating back to the 1860s, is now a charming bed and breakfast and the home base of a nonprofit that rescues horses from difficult circumstances.

Cerulean encapsulates the magic of Shelby County: it’s rich in history, spilling over with natural beauty, and it’s female-owned. It turns out, women run Shelby County and the region is better off for it. We’re not just talking girl power bumper stickers and power suits. A visit to Shelby County inevitably means benefiting from the hard work and kindness of the female entrepreneurs dotting the district.

Shelby County is conveniently located 40 minutes from Louisville and an hour from Lexington. It’s smack dab in the middle of the Bourbon Trail and is home to a number of distilleries, including Bulleit. With just shy of 100,000 people, it’s the largest of Kentucky’s 95 counties and it strikes a perfect balance between expansive farmlands and urban conveniences like tasteful accommodations and au current restaurants.

Strolling along Main Street in Shelbyville, a boulevard so scenic it practically looks like it’s a movie set, visitors will take in the warm sunshine and note the beautiful dogwood trees lining the sidewalk. Those very dogwood trees are the subject of a town-wide festival in April featuring local craft vendors and artists, live music and delectable Southern cuisine.

A picture-perfect scene like this could only benefit from one thing: ice cream. Well, gelato to be more specific. Spotz Gelato is nestled in the heart of downtown and it’s pretty hard to miss. The bright pink polka-dotted interior is topped only by the taste of their award-winning banana pudding flavor. Owner Beth Richardson pioneered Spotz out of love for the depth of flavor found in gelato and the special charm of small-town ice cream shops. She now operates six locations in Kentucky, one in Las Penitas, Nicaragua, and a fleet of mobile gelato trucks, wagons and bikes.

Derby Hats and Horses
Once your sweet tooth is satisfied, pop across the street to The Polkadotted Pineapple Boutique. There’s no doubt you’re in Kentucky when you stroll into this women’s clothing boutique, because every spare corner or mannequin is sporting an elaborate Kentucky Derby hat. Shop owner Dori Lewis makes many of the hats herself, piling feathers and flowers onto fascinators in true Derby style. The tradition of wearing hats to the famous horse race was brought over to the U.S. from English and French horse races and some say the bigger the hat, the bigger the luck.

But long before you don your Derby hat and order a mint julep, the horses that race the Derby are training. Melanie Defler, owner of West Meadow Farm in Eminence, has been training thoroughbred winners for years. Visitors can tour the farm and meet some of the soon-to-be Derby competitors. Though Defler breeds and houses race horses, she also accepts rescues and finds new careers for horses that are past their racing prime.

The Derby is an important part of Kentucky’s history and culture, but some of the side effects have been less than productive. Jeanette Aumon, the owner of Cerulean Farm, is using her own rescue program not only to rehabilitate horses but also to preserve original horse breeds. Native quarter horses are much healthier in their original foundation breed than when bred with thoroughbreds in order to race. Watching so many happy horses gallop across Aumon’s fields, it’s hard to believe some of them could barely walk when they arrived in her care.

Not all souvenirs from this trip are horses’ kisses and dusty boots. The Shoppes at Blue Gables is a complex of small shops by local vendors and artists. Built in an old motel compound, the shops include clothing, handmade bath products, an art gallery and much more. Shelby County is also home to The Outlet Shoppes of the Bluegrass, the only outlet in the entire state.

Bourbon? Of Course!
Alternatively, you could bring home a bottle of bourbon. After all, is it really Kentucky if you haven’t sipped a locally made Old Fashioned? Jeptha Creed is a unique stop on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail Craft Tour. Co-owned by master distiller mom Joyce Nethery and marketing manager daughter Autumn Nethery, the bourbon is distilled from bloody butcher corn grown by the Nethery family. The red corn, an unusual style for bourbon distilling, adds a richness of flavor to the beverage.

Start your visit to Jeptha Creed with a barrel tasting. You’ll be brought out to the barrel rooms where all the bourbons age. Sitting in leather armchairs, wrapped in furs in the cooler months, you’ll sample limited edition bourbons and learn about the company’s history. If you visit on a Sunday, Jeptha Creed’s lavish brunch Bloody Mary is a must. It comes with the distillery’s hot pepper vodka and enough skewered food to feed four people. Your Instagram will never be the same.

Back at Cerulean Farm you can nap off your trip along the bourbon trail or enjoy tea and homemade cookies on the year round porch. Aumon may join you to check in on your stay or she may be out caring for her horses, photographing local animals, educating students about equine health and generally saving the world. That’s women’s work in Shelby County.

visitshelbyky.com

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Atlanta has almost an embarrassing amount of fun things to do. From professional and college sports teams, to world-class museums, to parks, innovative restaurants, the BeltLine to concerts and festivals, we humbly admit that we have it all.

And, now even more! Yes, a number of new and exciting restaurants and activities have entered the city so that no matter where one is located — Westside, Eastside, Midtown, Buckhead and Downtown — there is more to do than ever to have a great time in the ATL.

RESTAURANTS
Atlanta has a firm grasp on what’s happening in the restaurant biz. First off, let’s congratulate Terry Koval of the Deer and the Dove for being awarded the Restaurant industry’s Oscar. Koval was just named the 2023 Best Chef Southeast by the James Beard Foundation. Other local 2023 James Beard semi-finalists include: Clinton Gray, Derrick Moore and Emanuel Reed for Slim & Husky’s Pia Berria, Lyla Lila (for its wine program); Ticonderoga Club (hospitality); Buena Gente Cuban Bakery; and Ronald Hsu and Aaron Phillips (Lazy Betty), Jiyeon Lee and Cody Taylor (Heirloom Market BBQ), Sahar Siddiqi (Chai Pani) and Deborah VanTrece (Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours).

Among the big news for the area was the opening of Nobu, the famous celebrity-favored sushi restaurant, and the Nobu Atlanta hotel. Both became instant hits among locals and outof-towners. Nobu is located across from Phipps Plaza, one of the country’s most exclusive shopping malls, which recently underwent a renovation. Part of the renovation was the recently opened Citizens Market Atlanta, a 25,000-square-foot immersive culinary destination that includes a culinary market with eight chef-driven brands and a full, indoor and outdoor bar. The variety of food offerings are fast casual options ranging from modern American to Asian-fusion.

Speaking of celebrities, Marcus Samuelsson, the acclaimed chef behind restaurants including the Red Rooster Harlem, and winner of eight James Beard Foundation awards, recently opened Marcus Bar & Grille, which serves elevated comfort classics and signature dishes. Located in the funky neighborhood of Edgewood Avenue (don’t forget to go to the nearby Sister Louisa’s Church of the Living Room & Ping Pong Emporium), the restaurant shows why Samuelsson has prepared dishes for former President Obama.

We’re excited by downtown’s R3 Rosendale Concepts, a restaurant by award-winning and Certified Master Chef® Rich Rosendale (only one of 72 in the country) with menus inspired from local cuisine, seasonal ingredients and the personal experiences of the R3 team. Everything about the restaurant is impeccable: the flexible and creative menu, the service as well as the decor. There’s also live music every night.

Deborah VanTrece continued her history of fabulous restaurants with the opening of La Panarda, which showcases her love of Italian cuisine, in the revitalizing Cascade Heights area. Follow the yellow brick road (literally) to Amore e Amore, a Ponce Highland restaurant that takes its themes, well, very seriously. Currently it’s a Wizard of Oz theme, complete with Dorothy, the Tin Man and lots of Wicked Witch hats decoratively and literally filling every inch of this great Italian restaurant. Themes change, so you must keep going back.

Other new restaurants making waves are: Zakia Modern Lebanese Restaurant in Buckhead, Brassica in the Waldorf Astoria, Wicked Wolf Sports Pub & Club and Johnny’s Chicken & Waffles, both in Midtown. Last but not least, we need to give a nod to the Fishmonger, named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants, with two locations.

Check out the Summerhill neighborhood near the former Turner Field, (now the Georgia State Stadium) for a variety of great food and drink options such as Little Bear for international fare, Wood’s Chapel BBQ or Halfway Crooks Beer for great craft beer.

Of course, we can never forget Atlanta’s favorites including the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, the Livingston Restaurant & Bar (which re-opened after three years), Bazati on the BeltLine, Ray’s in the City, Aria, Thumbs Up Diner, The Optimist, Atlas, and Nan Thai Fine Dining.

ENTERTAINMENT
Pullman Yards, in the Kirkwood neighborhood, has come on strong lately as a fun spot with two great restaurants (Fishmonger and Dailies & Sides), pickleball, as well as concerts, and special events such as Jurassic World the Exhibition. But its latest addition is AlcoHall, a food hall for drinks. AlcoHall features seven stalls with different alcohol brands offering everything from wine, whiskey to beers on tap.

Föwling Warehouse, located on the Westside, is the only place in Georgia to play föwling, a combination football, bowling and horseshoe game. There’s also a great bar, games, pub food and has a dog-friendly outdoor patio. Located at The Works on the Westside, Your 3rd Spot has it all — great food and drinks and games — lots of games — more than 80, in fact. Explore the shops, restaurants and activities over at Atlantic Station.

PuttShack in the Interlock complex on the Westside still delights with tech-infused mini golf and great food and drinks. While on the roof is L.O.A. Rooftop, which offers some of the best views of the city, a beautiful pool (day pass or membership pass) and Restaurant L.O.A., a fantastic restaurant. Other new entertainment entries into Atlanta include the Sloomoo Institute, a slime and sensory play experience, Painted Pickle, a boutique bowling bar, Beat the Bomb and Flight Club Atlanta, an interactive social darts destination.

Explore the wonders of the ocean at the Georgia Aquarium where you can have an immersive shark, sea lion and ray interactions. The Aquarium inspires, educates and entertains guests about aquatic biodiversity through its hundreds of exhibits and tens of thousands of animals across seven galleries.

Westside Motor Lounge is a dynamic indoor-outdoor culinary and entertainment experience near the Westside BeltLine Connector. Westside Motor Lounge is an adaptive resuse project that features a restaurant We could go on and on… but we really (honestly) don’t want to brag.

Be sure to explore bustling Brookhaven where you will find a wealth of locally owned restaurants, exceptional shops and a vibrant arts scene. Don’t miss the opportunity to shop at Brookhaven’s Farmer’s Market. Open every Saturday morning, 9AM – 12PM at 1375 Fernwood Circle NE, 30319, stalls are filled with fresh fruits, vegetables and more. Brookhaven also sports Food Truck Nights. Join the crowds flocking to try the fare on the last Wednesday of the month and enjoy live music, food trucks, and activities for the kids. Be sure to bring blankets and chairs and check the weather before you head out.

Trendy restaurants, including Haven and Petite Violette, savvy shops and a fabulous vibe make Brookhaven the place to see and be see.

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Story by Mary WeIch Photos by Grady McGill

In the United States, they’re called the “Flyover States.” In Canada, it’s all about “VTM” or Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal. Everything else, according to coastal elites, doesn’t matter.

But, as anyone who has ever had a jelly donut or an Oreo knows, the best part is in the middle. And, that is certainly true of Winnipeg, the crown jewel of the Canadian province of Manitoba, and 1,600 miles from Vancouver and 2,300 miles from Montreal. Winnipeg is a city with heart, grit, culture, charm, quirks, authenticity and surprising diversity. There are more than 100 languages spoken, resulting in great ethnic mom-and-pop restaurants.

Come to Winnipeg and you’ll discover what others already know — it’s cool! Winnie-the-Pooh (AKA Winnipeg Bear) is from Winnipeg as was William Stephenson, the martini-swilling, gadget-loving, romancing spy that Ian Fleming used as his model for James Bond. Homer Simpson is an honorary “Pegger” because creator Matt Groening named the character after his father, Homer, who hailed from — you guessed it! South Park even has an Earl of Winnipeg. And, the list goes on and on.

So, a visit to this city and Manitoba should be on every traveler’s list — especially if you’re cool. It’s a unique Canadian adventure and introduction to a city and province that are making a comeback with a vengeance with world-class museums, great shops, scenic beauty, and good old Canadian humorous self depreciation.

Yes, it’s cold!
Even some Peggers questioned our desire to visit the Great White North in March and, after one particularly blustery day, we did too! But, we’re glad we persevered and learned to, as someone said, “lean into the winter.” Embrace it. Make lemonade out of lemons — even if it’s frozen lemonade..

A visit to Winnipeg should start with an informative, comprehensive and entertaining Winnipeg Trolley Company tour that takes you to a chocolate shop in the French section and to an alley where the garages are painted with wildlife — and everything in between.

We were disappointed that we missed ice skating on the River Skating trail where people skate, walk, ride a fat tire bike or kicksled with an occasional stop at a warming station. The trail stretches 3.7 miles on both the Assiniboine and Red Rivers, and yes, a Zamboni grooms it daily. Skating ended the day before we arrived as the temperatures started inching up toward freezing.

Lots of snow also lends itself to creativity and dozens of ice sculptures dotted the city, some heroic in nature, others whimsically creative. Although we looked nightly, we were a little too far south to see the Northern Lights and should have added an extra day to take the train to Churchill, where the lights seem to perform nightly.

Of course, Canadians do love sports and while you’re there enjoy a game of hockey either with the NHL team, the Winnipeg Jets (be sure to order a Jumbo Jet Dog) or the AHL team, the Manitoba Moose.

Outdoor spa
A local favorite is Thermëa by Nordik Spa-Nature, a wellness spa that eliminates toxics, releases adrenaline and gets the endorphins flowing. All of that happens with a routine of sitting in a sauna or steam room, then plunging into an icy pool followed by two rounds of hot tubs (one lukewarm, the other hot) and then relaxing (heated stone beds). Repeat — twice. The pool and hot tubs are outside, so you are literally in a bathing suit walking from station to station in freezing weather. The ritual is based on a 2,000-year-old Nordic tradition and afterwards you are refreshed, exhilarated, and ready to have a drink and lunch at Restö, the spa’s restaurant, and one of the best meals of our trip.

Museums and a Zoo
The city has world-class museums, notably the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, the world’s first museum dedicated to human rights. The 10 galleries offer insights into understanding human rights from a number of perspectives including women, indigenous people, Canadian, and the Holocaust. But it also showcases how to make a difference, speak out and understand the fragility of human rights. It truly was inspiring and we took the call to action to heart.

The locals have taken to heart acknowledging human rights as they frequently pay tribute to the area’s ancestral lands and various tribes including the Ojibway, Inninewak (Cree), Métis, Anishinnewak (Oji-Cree) Dene and Dakota peoples. Many signs on buildings note they were built on ancestral lands.

Another must-see is the Manitoba Museum, a human and natural history museum that tells the province’s story from rare 90-million-year-old fossils to a Cree settlement, to a teepee or Red River house and the Nonsuch Gallery, to viewing the Nonsuch, the ship that helped start the Hudson’s Bay Company. Honestly fascinating and well done.

Winnipeg has been the epicenter of trade and commerce dating back to the Indigenous nations. Get the scoop by visiting the Royal Aviation Museum of Western Canada with more than 90 historic aircraft and 70,000 artifacts, texts and photographs. Our favorite was the replica of the Avrocar, a joint U.S.-Canadian attempt at a top-secret flying saucer that never got off the ground — literally and figuratively.

The 80-acre Assiniboine Park Zoo is the perfect way to explore the animals of the world, but particularly of the north. Although there are a number of exhibits, it’s the Journey to Churchill exhibit that is the most exciting. It’s the most comprehensive northern species exhibit in the world, and you can view foxes, seals, snowy owls, musk, reindeer and arctic foxes in what is close to their natural habitat. Of course, the two polar bears who stepped out of their cave to say hi made our day.

Continuing our journey into nature, we Ubered to The Leaf, a botanical garden that showcases the plants of four distinct worlds. The tropical biome overflowed with tropical plants and the country’s largest indoor waterfall, while the Mediterranean biome features plants from Greece, Italy as well as South Africa and southwest Australia. You can also interact with butterflies at the magical Shirley Richardson Butterfly Garden as they flutter around you.

Let’s eat!
We stayed at the Fairmont Winnipeg, ideally suited between the downtown area (we walked to the Jets game) and the Forks National Historic Site. The hotel’s luxury was in full view and we loved the hot cider in the evening and breakfast in the Velvet Glove restaurant.

As we mentioned, Winnipeg’s culinary diversity is front and center with an eclectic selection of eateries including Corrientes (Argentina pizza with a Canadian twist featuring toppings such as pickerel cheeks and corn) and Clementine’s, a hipster place with classic brunch dishes. Definitely try the smoked Arctic Char with crispy potato cakes, horseradish, creme fraîche and cured dill cubes. Feast Cafe Bistro is one of the few Indigenous-owned and operated restaurants in Canada that is rooted in First Nations cuisine and prepared in a traditional manner. Chef/owner Christa Bruneau-Guenther oversees a menu featuring Saskatoon berry smoothies, elk stew, braised bison ribs, pickerel and buffalo lasagna.

Have your pick at the Forks Market. The Forks is Manitoba’s top tourist attraction that offers year-round shopping, activities and a slew of dining options, including Sri Lankan specialities and fish and chips (our choices).

Tabula Rasa is a charming tapas restaurant while the pizza is wonderful at Cibo Waterfront Cafe. Nearby is Patent 5 Distillery that distills gin and vodka using Manitoban wheat and barley and serves innovative cocktails based on Zodiac signs. It’s local all the way and worth a try.

Manitoba
While we only stayed in Winnipeg, Manitoba deserves a shoutout. We truly intend to go back and take the train up to Churchill (there are no roads) to spot polar bears and beluga whales (it’s in the migration paths of both). The Northern Lights (bucket list) are visible up to 300 nights of the year.

For those who love nature, Manitoba has it all — from the arctic tundra, Hudson Bay coastline, fresh lakes, prairie and a dense boreal forest — and it’s a world-class place to fish, camp and hike.

Both Winnipeg and Manitoba have new slogans. Winnipeg’s is “Made From What’s Real” that celebrates its what-you-see-is-whatyou-get mentality. Manitoba’s is “Canada’s Heart is Calling”.

Answer that call.

tourismwinnipeg.com
travelmanitoba.com

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No, you can’t see Russia from your window but you can see a lot more — and you won’t want to miss it. A trip on Celebrity Cruises’ Millennium is a treat one should take — for themselves, for their family, to renew their lust for life and marvel at the wonder of nature. It’s all there.

This was our fourth trip to the Last Frontier and our first on Celebrity. In both cases, it won’t be our last. While the Millennium is awesome (more on that later) the true star is Alaska. From our balcony we simply sat in awe as snow-capped mountains passed by. We wanted the Northern Lights to show up (nope) but the sun and its shadows presented a visual display especially at sunset, which was well past 9 p.m. The air was fresh, the scenery pristine and nature was all around and glorious.

The Mendenhall Glacier
The first day was blustery so we weren’t sure we could get close to the Mendenhall Glacier, which is almost 14 miles long and unfortunately receding. The captain made a valiant attempt to navigate the icy waters and then turned around. Suddenly, there was an opening and he reversed course to give us as close a view of this blue-tinged wonder as possible. Bravo to the captain and crew!

Juneau
Alaska’s capital was our first stop as our group dispersed to explore. Some went up the Tram for a bird’s eye view of the port and a quick hike. Others went whale watching, visited a dog sled summer camp or panned for gold. We chose to get our land legs back and walked around the colorful town, checking out the many jewelry and souvenir shops and the infamous Red Dog Saloon, which has welcomed miners and their lady friends for food, drinks, honky-tonk piano playing and overall adult frivolity, for decades. Located on a prominent waterfront spot is King Crab Shack with giant crab legs cooking outside. We were tempted but the price of $70 for a pound of crab leg led us scurrying back to the ship’s restaurants.

Icy Strait Point
The Huna Tlingits have called Icy Strait Point home since the Little Ice Age and in the 1880’s it was populated by fur traders followed by schools, churches and shops. Around 1912 it was the home of the largest salmon packhouse in the territory producing a mind-boggling 152,505 cases year.

Icy Strait Point is the only privately owned cruise port in Alaska and is owned by about 1,350 Alaskan natives, many of whose ancestors were the original Tlingit settlers. It’s a beautiful little area where packhouses and canneries are now shops, restaurants and event rooms. The shops are less touristy, more authentic and you can get great selections of spices, art, jewelry and clothing not found elsewhere.

Instead of careening down the world’s largest zip rider (at a 1130-degree vertical feet, that’s taller than the Empire State Building), or kayaking on the mirror-calm waters, we opted for a local culinary experience with an elderly Tlingit woman delightfully reminiscing about her childhood, showing us pictures of an upright bear she saw that morning and fixing Halibut Italian sausage, salmon burgers and smoked salmon dip. A young man demonstrated the art of filleting a halibut and then we took a slice of halibut and salmon outside to grill. Delicious!

Skagway
Skagway is cool. From the White Pass railroad to a “brothel” where the madams stick a leg outside the second-floor window, this center of the Klondike Gold Rush takes its somewhat shady past with a grain of salt and a bit of a giggle. The oncelawless town was the home of thieves, madams, shoot-outs and prospectors who only really found out how difficult it was to reach their goal when it was too far to turn back. More than 35,000 prospectors died (mostly from disease) and Gold Rush cemeteries can still be seen. The historic district is impressive with more than 100 buildings, including the 1899 Arctic Brotherhood Hall whose facade is covered with more than 8,800 bits of wood. Like we said, quirky!

We opted for a trip on the White Pass Scenic Railroad, a long scenic railroad with climate-controlled, old-fashioned rail cars (to flush the toilet, you have to use a pump). Oh what majestic beauty! The train took us through tunnels, over sky-high trestles going all the way up to the 2,865-foot summit of the White Pass. Trail highlights include Bridal Veil Valls, Inspiration Point, Dead Horse Gulch and a black cross memorializing two workers who were crushed by a falling boulder, which is still there. As the train slowly climbs its way up the mountain, you hear about the heroic efforts of railroad workers and miners as well as view waterfalls and take pictures at almost every turn. Travelgirl tip: Sit on the left side of the train; it’s more scenic.

Ketchikan
Our final stop was the salmon capital of the world, Ketchikan. We chose the Best of Ketchikan by Land and Sea tour where we spied bald eagles on the boat ride, learned about how salmon was caught and processed (the workers were treated horribly) and, after a brief walk through the nation’s largest national forest, the Tongass National Forest (and the world’s largest temperate rainforest), on to the Saxman Native Village to view magnificent totem poles.

Our group of eight all chose different excursions with some coming back thrilled at seeing orca and humpback whales while others cuddled up to husky puppies or watched a lumberjack show. Many went kayaking while some simply explored on their own. Whether you are adventurous or more on the subdued side, there is an activity waiting for you at each port — even if it’s a restaurant with fresh salmon and a local beer.

Meet the Millennium
We boarded the Millennium in Seward for the seven-day Southbound Glacier cruise that ended in Vancouver. Other Alaska Celebrity cruise ships with different itineraries include the Solstice, Edge and Summit. All offer the amazing amenities found on any Celebrity ship.

The Millennium, which is being assigned to Asia after the season, has an occupancy of 2,218 and is one of the first cruise ships to receive a Four-Star rating by Forbes Travel Guide. We stayed in the AquaClass, which featured a private balcony, complimentary dining at the health-focused Blu and unlimited access to the Persian Garden, a private spa that featured a hammam, infrared and steam room. The cabin was roomy, but we would have preferred losing a few feet of stateroom for a few more in the shower, which was unbelievably small.

Nevertheless, there was a well-balanced list of activities to keep one busy, including gambling, yoga, wine tastings, sports, movies and contests such as Deal or No Deal. There were also plenty of quiet spots to read and have a morning coffee.

Two of the best parts of cruising are the food and entertainment. The Millennium had several restaurants including the Metropolitan, the main dining room, and Oceanview, the cafeteria-style eatery. Both, as well as the others, had a varied selection including glutenfree and vegetarian. The specialty restaurants lived up to their names with the Tuscan Grille offering Italian food and steaks.

Travelgirl tip: Order a quarter-size portion of pasta and then a terrific steak.

Sushi on Five offered traditional sushi and rolls as well as delectable dishes such as excellent miso soup, homemade lobster & shrimp wontons and lobster ramen. The real surprise, dare we say mind-bending, was Le Petit Chef. Sit down at the custom 3D table and meet Le Petite Chef, an animated character who pops up on your plate and table and explains the menu and its inspirations. It’s delightful and the food matches the inventiveness of the character.

The Martini Bar is another favorite. The master bartenders literally pour six flavors of martinis into 12 glasses at the same time. They do the same feat with three martini glasses situated on the bartender’s head and shoulders. By the way, the martinis are sublime.

We loved the intimate entertainment with a few musicians, or even a solo guitarist, playing but you could also enjoy loud and caffeinated Broadway-type shows as well as a very funny musician and Cirque de Soleil-type aerial team. In any event, there is plenty to do at night, including dancing, silent disco and karaoke with a live band.

Yes, on this trip you’ll see it all. You’ll witness breathtaking scenery, admire the heritage of the native populations as well as the colorful settlers who (semi) tamed Alaska. It’s about watching the sun set from a hot tub or the delighted faces of cruisers having the time of their lives. It’s quite a view — and it’s waiting for you.

celebritycruises.com
travelalaska.com

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Story by Mary Welch Photos by Grady McGill

Now that the hotel, Nobu Atlanta, and its flagship restaurant came to Atlanta, we can testify: “It’s really special. It’s a big deal!”

Nobu Atlanta is a 150-room hotel nestled around the corner of Buckhead’s Phipps Plaza with a restaurant, rooftop pool, corporate conference space and spa facilities. Upon entering, the Asian influence of muted browns and textured wallpaper give a sense of serenity, Japanese minimalism and, after being greeted with a cold towel and a cup of tea upon arrival, cool luxury. The service, both in the hotel and restaurant, was impeccable.

We stayed in the Momiji Suite, which is 825 square feet of pure bliss. The living room, kitchen area and half bath had a businesslike atmosphere with leather and woods while the bedroom offered an oasis of calm and peace. The huge master bathroom featured a deep, deep tub, separate rainfall shower, Natura Bissé bath amenities, Dyson hair dryer and hair straightener (loved them) and two sets of bathrobes, one a terrycloth for après bath and another patterned silky one for… we don’t know exactly …fantasize you’re a movie star, drink wine and enjoy the luxurious accommodations? Anyway, it worked!

It’s like heaven!
Those exuberant words came out of our companion as he tasted a variety of dishes at this famed restaurant. Nobu was founded by world-renowned Chef Nobu Matsuhisa as well as film producer Meir Teper and Robert (needs no introduction) De Niro. While all the restaurants across the world (including the dozen or so, like Atlanta, where there is a restaurant inside the hotel) are decorated slightly differently, they all exhibited a casual warmth that makes you feel welcomed, even if you’re not a superstar. The large open sushi bar and kitchen brought a bit of energy to the room and made it more intimate.

While there were a few in suits and an unfortunate few in shorts, dining at Nobu is more of a business casual atmosphere where again the focus is on relaxing and enjoying a meal that will thrill and, in a tapas sort of way, encourage you to order more and more.

The menu is divided into a couple of sections: Shuko (appetizers), tacos, kushiyaki (skewered protein), cold dishes, hot dishes and sushi. We started with crispy okra with spicy tosazu sauce, which was so light it almost floated away. Perfection. We then ordered two tacos, lobster and wagyu. They were small — two bites each — but were so packed with flavor that one felt sated and ready for the next dish.

It was difficult selecting the cold dishes so we went with our amazing server’s suggestion: tai with dried miso. Tai, a Pacific sea bream, is a Japanese delicacy and Nobu’s chef invented dried miso. The paper-thin fish floated in olive oil and truly melted in our mouths. Crispy rice with spicy tuna was a surprise as there were six crispy rice squares — almost like dice — that you dipped in soy sauce and added the tuna. We finished the cold starters with salmon belly sashimi with wasabi salsa, which was heaven and added a little tartness to our selections.

For the hot dishes, the lamb chops served with gochujang honey were cooked to perfection and the rock shrimp tempura with a butter ponzu was different from the tempura that we’ve had in other restaurants. We followed the hot dishes with the chef’s selections of sushi and a flaming Baked Alaska.

So, does Nobu Atlanta and its restaurant live up to all the Hollywood hype? Actually, it does. It’s a superstar hotel and restaurant that deserve a standing ovation for excellence and a reservation.

noburestaurants.com
nobuhotels.com

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By Celina Colby

It’s hard to get more quintessential New England than Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The charming town is lined with cobblestone and brick streets, local boutiques, and buildings dating back as far as the 1600s. Restaurants offer up mayo-dressed lobster rolls and clam chowder and the residents have swapped pilgrim collars for Patriots caps.

Located directly on the water, this is an ideal spring and summer getaway when the brilliant yellow forsythia buds are beginning to bloom. Portsmouth is just an hour by bus or car from Bah-stun and most of the same slang applies. Called “one of the most culturally rich destinations” by Dozen Distinctive Destinations, Portsmouth’s history comes alive while seamlessly blending in the modern. A historic working seaport, Portsmouth features art galleries, jazz clubs, chef-owned restaurants, breweries and beautiful red brick buildings. Portsmouth takes pride in the fact that almost all of the shops downtown are independently owned. Did we mention that downtown’s shops are tax free?

For historical background, the Strawberry Banke Museum is a must. Though it’s dubbed a museum, it’s really a 10-acre campus illustrating what life was like for the original native inhabitants and early settlers of Portsmouth. You can tour historic homes and gardens, chat with costumed performers, and engage in hands-on crafting.

But in the spring particularly the Wentworth-Coolidge mansion is an unparalleled way to experience historic Portsmouth. The 18th-century house sits right on the banks of the Portsmouth Harbor on a sprawling property that bursts with vibrant blooming flowers in May and June. You can tour the mansion and learn about upper-crust life in the 1700s, but it’s also a beautiful spot to picnic at and enjoy the waterfront views.

Portsmouth offers a variety of lodging. Hotel Thaxter, newly opened on Middle Street in a former church from the 1860s, provides both the comforts of a modern boutique hotel and a strong connection to Portsmouth’s rich history. The property is named for Celia Thaxter, a writer, painter, and recreational botanist who established one of the first artist colonies in Portsmouth. Plants were one of Thaxter’s passions and her green thumb is evidenced all over the hotel: in the floral printed chairs of the library, the faux flowers outside each room that indicate a guest’s cleaning preference, and the copies of Thaxter’s books that live in each room like a botanical bible.

Local hospitality guru Amanda McSharry, who created the property with her husband, Jay, felt a kinship with Thaxter who was a pioneering creative in her time and the passion for this project is evident in every detail.

In addition to creature comforts, Hotel Thaxter is home to an innovative Japanese restaurant, Nichinan. Here you can sip craft cocktails and sample wagyu beef in a chic, art decoinspired space. The new Sailmaker’s House, Wentworth By The Sea, The Hotel Portsmouth, Water Street Inn, the Ale House and the historic 360-year-old Three Chimneys Inn in nearly Durham, each offer their own charm that will make any visit special. In addition, there are plenty of national hotel chains available.

Though charm and history run heavy in Portsmouth, the contemporary flourishes too. 3S Artspace is a dynamic nonprofit performance and visual art space near the water. The robust events calendar includes film screenings, live music, performance art, hands-on creative workshops like ink painting, and much more. The space has also become a meeting group for other community events like clothing swaps.

Modern innovation has reached the hospitality industry here as well. The Inn Downtown is part of a group of apart-hotels pioneered by local entrepreneur Doug Palardy. These accommodations are like studio apartments, with efficiency (and sometimes full) kitchens, sitting and sleeping areas, and spacious well-appointed bathrooms. This makes them convenient for both short- and long-term stays.

The Inn is also completely self-managed. Guests are given a code at check-in for their rooms and check in and out independently. The rooms and common areas are cleaned but there’s no central lobby or desk staff. This worked well as a safety precaution during the COVID-19 pandemic but that kind of mobility and independence has remained popular with young travelers.

This property is located directly in the heart of downtown Portsmouth for easy walking access to just about everything, but sister property Great Island Inn down the road in New Castle provides more of a beach experience.

Portsmouth, New Hampshire, strikes a special balance between urban hotel amenities and cuisine and coastal small-town history and charm. It has many of the conveniences and luxuries you might find in Boston and all of that quaintness you’ll find in Bar Harbor.

When you visit take advantage of all there is to do, but don’t forget to take a page out of Celia Thaxter’s book and stop to smell the flowers.

goportsmouthnh.com

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If Paris is the City of Lights, then Taipai, Taiwan, is the City of Animated Lights. All over this fascinating, captivating city are light shows on buildings — playful characters dancing or colored lights flitting up and down the skyscrapers — as well as vibrant cartoon-like figures dotting city parks. We attended the Lantern Festival, which kicks off the Chinese New Year, and has more than 300 exhibits and brilliant masterpieces that signify different themes such as international friendship or prosperity. Many are animated and change expressions every couple of minutes.

One of the world’s great capitals, Taipei — and the rest of Taiwan — is a tourist’s delight with ancient ornamental temples, modern skyscrapers, night markets and food — glorious food. The sights, sounds and smells (we’re talking about you, stinky tofu!) will delight, astonish, amaze and educate.

If Taiwan isn’t on your to-visit list, write it down, now! Taiwan, officially known as the Republic of China and formerly Formosa, has a complicated history — not to mention present with China on-andoff making noise — but it is a vibrant country with more than 24 million inhabitants, centuries of history and a modern outlook with cutting-edge technology everywhere. But what struck our group right off the bat was that all those millions were polite and respectful — even the cars and hundreds of scooters whizzing by. There were even signs in elevators saying, “No talking”. Organized chaos, one noted.

All very civilized — which of course it should be. Taiwan has been settled for at least 25,000 years and over the centuries indigenous peoples, Han Chinese, the Dutch, the Ming dynasty, the Qing dynasty and the Empire of Japan (among others) all weighed in and put their stamp on the island, resulting in a mesmerizing, energizing, delightful country that is a full voting democracy with legalized same-sex marriage and the 21st largest economy in the world.

The bottom line is that it is a wonderful spot to introduce oneself to the charms and intrigues of Asia.

Taipai
Taipai is a bustling capital with shops, night markets, temples and lots of city parks. We stayed at the Okra Prestige Taipei Hotel, which not only offered extensive buffet meals (expect soup and dumplings even at breakfast) but had a dream spa with a steam room, sauna and hot and cold whirlpools, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing.

Our first stop took us away from the city to the mountains of Laochuan Borough and a visit with U-Theatre, a drumming and performance arts company unlike any other. Formed by Liu Ruoyu and her husband Huang Chih-chun, the company is as much a religious Tao experience as a musical one. The members lead a rigorous lifestyle that includes tai chi, meditation, hiking and drumming. The search for inner peace is as much a part of their essence as the drumming and a sense of peace and connection with the music was felt by all.

On the other spectrum of serenity was the Raohe Street Night Market, one of many in the city. A full-on culinary experience, there are rows of food being cooked, small corners with tables for eating, as well as boutiques, beauty shops and game rooms for about a mile. You could go every day and order something different and it would take a long time to repeat yourself.

Each item looked and smelled delicious except every once in a while, there was a foul order. Stinky tofu, our guide, said with a laugh. Yes, once you smell it, you’ll never forget it. We were assured it tastes better than it smells, which isn’t saying much. The tofu, which is fermented in a brine sometimes for months, has an odor more like rotten garbage or smelly feet than something you’d want to order.

The National Palace Museum showcases the incredible art of China over the past 8,000 years with a permanent collection of almost 700,00 pieces. Many of the pieces were moved from the Palace Museum in the Forbidden City in China and shipped to Taiwan fearing the threat of a Japanese evasion during World War II and later, a Communist takeover. The museum’s collection showcases impressive intricate jade, metalwork and ceramics that will leave you amazed at the craftsmanship.

After that we leapt into current times with a visit to the 101 Tower, a skyscraper that has — you guessed it — 101 stories and was the world’s tallest building until the 2009 completion of the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. A structural marvel designed to withstand typhoon winds and earthquake tremors, the building reflects the country’s love of color, design and playful animation with Instagram-worthy photos, shops, children’s games and an area where if you sit down on the floor, it feels as if you’re moving — or maybe we were — who knows! There’s a lot to do besides looking out the windows; regardless, it’s fun for all.

While there is so much to do and see in Taiwan, here are two simple ones: get a Korean foot massage and drink bubble tea. Bubble tea, which was invented there, is a cold refreshing drink with tapioca pearls, and a bit off-putting when a small ball comes up the straw and into your mouth. The Korean foot massage is not for the faint of heart; my masseuse’s hands could substitute for the jaws of life.

Tainan City
While Taipei has the look and feel of the cosmopolitan city it is, Tainan City delights with its history and authentic feel. The oldest city on the island and with a tropical climate, Tainan is dotted with Taoist, and Buddhist temples as well as churches and remnants of earlier times. While there is much to see including the Aniping Old Fort (where the Dutch set up their commercial efforts) to the Anping Tree House and the Tainan Orchid Botanical Garden, what made our trip exceptional were the temples. Travelgirl tip: The Silks Place Tainan offers 5-star accommodations and dining.

Just walking through the alleyways was charming with old houses with colorful decorated doorways and transoms dotting the landscape while small birds in cages fluttered about and sang. The key is to look up because the many of the roofs feature ornately carved sculptures of dragons, bats, mystic figures brightly painted with lots of golds, reds and blues. The mind really couldn’t take it all in — it was that beautiful and so ornately overwhelming.

The Tainan Confucian Temple was built in 1665 and in addition to the temple there is Wen Miao (a lecture hall) to the right, Gun Xue (national academy) to the left and Ta-Cheng Hall, housing the mortuary tablet of Confucius and disciples. The temple itself is deep red with hanging wooden plaques honoring Confucius and are considered the most precious relics in any Confucius temple. The centerpoint is a small altar embossed with gold designs that could be fish, dragons or other mythical creatures as well as lettering with smaller altars to the sides for worship.

The other highlight of this magnificent city was, in fact, another temple, the Tiangong Temple or the Temple of Heaven built in 1954 and dedicated to the Jade Emperor. Old stone carvings of Chinese characters are on the walls and a pair of granite coiled dragon pillars anchor the palace hall. Inside there were red lanterns, pagodas, and flowers, red streamers with people praying and lighting candles making wishes.

As we said. the typography of Taiwan is diverse and with 973 miles of coastline, finding a beach is easy and worthwhile. There are a variety of beaches including gold and black beaches to the north and, to the south, fine white sandy beaches. We didn’t visit them but we did head up the mountains and panned for gold in New Taipei City and participated in a tea ceremony at the Jiufen Amei Tea House in Jiufen, a nearby mountain town packed with tea houses, street food shacks and souvenir shops.

Never having been to Asia, we had nothing to compare Taiwan to but we found it to be a country overloaded with history, varied scenery, great shopping, incredible food (be sure to bring home pineapple cakes) and a futuristic delight with bright lights, neons and sparkly things all around that will just make you smile.

mofa.gov.tw
eng.taiwan.net.tw

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Story and Photos by Celina Colby

New England’s coastal beauty is best experienced in multiples. Multiple oysters, multiple scenic walks along rocky shores, multiple encounters with plaid-clad locals at the Main Street watering hole. Why stop at just one charming, historic town when you can soak up three over the course of the week? The New England Coastal Road Trip package put together by Colwen Hotels allows lobster lovers to experience three quintessential New England towns in one go.

First Stop: Portland
You can structure your trip however you’d like, but we recommend starting north and working your way down the coast. Check in at the Portland Harbor Hotel, a charming and luxurious property nestled in the heart of the city’s historic Old Port district. Decorated in the rich navy blue, red and cream colors of the region, the property is at once cozy and upscale. Highlights of the experience include the lavish breakfast menu served in the restaurant or via room service and the outdoor fire pit that warms travelers year-round.

From the Portland Harbor Hotel it’s an easy walk to the best Portland has to offer. The foodie city is bursting with vibrant culinary experiences. Obviously, you’re going to want to try some of that famous Maine lobster. Head to Eventide Oyster Co. for an upscale, avant-garde experience featuring a huge selection of oysters and a bao-style bun for your lobster roll. Or keep it classic by grabbing a mayo-soaked roll from the Portland Lobster Company and eating it overlooking the water. You can literally watch fishermen pull lobsters out of the water while you eat one. That’s the kind of voyeurism we can get into.

Don’t skimp on culture at this stop as the Portland Museum of Art offers a dynamic collection of local and national artists. Throw any preconceived notions you have of Maine art out the window. Boat paintings be gone. History buffs will also love a tour of Victoria Mansion, a uniquely preserved slice of architectural and regional history.

At each stop along the road trip, you’ll find a package of local snacks in your room to get you in the New England mood. While you stroll the streets of Portland you can nibble on sweet blueberry popcorn and sip a cold root beer.

Second Stop: Portsmouth
Drive (or take the regional bus) just an hour south from Portland to Portsmouth, NH, another quintessential coastal New England town with roots back to the early 1600s. You can’t get much more early-America than that.

Though the city retains its historic charm, we promise there have been significant comfort upgrades since the Pilgrims rolled up to the Portsmouth shore. For example, instead of roughing it like the Pilgrims did, you can now stay in the comfort of the AC Hotel Portsmouth. Don’t be fooled by the Marriott parentage of this hotel, it’s chic with a capital “C” sporting a clean-lined black lobby with multiple gas fireplaces and an upgraded fitness center where you can stream stationary bike classes in a private spin room. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy dinner or a drink in the rooftop restaurant overlooking the Old Harbor.

You’ll want to engage in a New England pastime, strolling down Main Street, or in Portsmouth’s case, Market Street. It’s here that you’ll find a plethora of unique, local shops and restaurants. Those with a penchant for the literary should head to Book & Bar for a cocktail or a coffee and an afternoon of browsing through shelves of used books. Pickwick’s Mercantile is a vintage-y gift shop nodding to Portsmouth’s rich history and offering locally made cards, candles, and other goods.

Top off your evening with an innovative meal on a haute cuisine level but served up in a comfortable, casual environment at Raleigh Wine Bar. The enthusiastic team can recommend a different, unique wine to match each course. After all, you need to be fortified for the final leg of your trip.

Third Stop: Boston
Another hour in the car or on a bus and you’ll find yourself in Paul Revere’s very own hometown. Well, close by anyway. For the third stop on the New England Coastal Road Trip you’re based at The Row Hotel in Somerville, just outside Boston on the Cambridge side. The artistic and contemporary hotel is located in a newly built complex of shops, art installations, restaurants and entertainment called Assembly Row.

The complex is located right at an MBTA subway stop so you can easily pop into Boston proper for a Red Sox game or a stroll along the Freedom Trail. Satiate your cravings for local oysters and classic clam chowder at Salt and Stone just around the corner from The Row Hotel or just sip craft cocktails at the restaurant’s Instagram-worthy midcentury style bar overlooking their woodfired oven. Further down the street, pop into All She Wrote Books, a local bookshop highlighting historically underrepresented authors, like women, LGBTQIA+ and POC writers. Take your new reading material back to the hotel and enjoy it while lounging by the petite but beautifully decorated indoor pool.

The location of The Row Hotel offers visitors the opportunity to encounter as much or as little of the traditional Boston experience as they’d like. You can go into town every day for classic Boston moments like a walk through Harvard Yard or a Duck Boat tour around the city. Or you can lay low in Somerville’s Assembly Row neighborhood, prioritizing relaxation at the end of your road trip.

The New England Coastal Road Trip caters to the foodie, the shopper, the action-packed tourist and the poolside lounger alike. No matter what your interests, you’ll leave the region pronouncing car as “cah.”

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Story by Jeffrey Willis • Photos by Juan Iucciolino

Argentina didn’t need a World Cup victory to put it back on the international radar, but it sure didn’t hurt.

While the country’s pride and passion were on full display for the world to see, this was just the tip of the iceberg (literally, but we will get to that a bit later) for this culture-rich, panoramic nation.

And let’s just get something out of the way up front. Argentina is big; it’s the eighth largest country in the world. Being able to travel from tropical to Arctic climates all within the same country is amazing but takes planning, especially if you are packing it all into two weeks.

Travel Girl Tip: Assuming you are planning to visit multiple locations, use an Argentine-based travel agent to arrange your full itinerary and for better rates.

Something in the “Good Airs”
There is definitely something in the air of Buenos Aires. The capital city is the starting point for any trip in Argentina. While often called the Paris of the South, it has a style that is very much its own.

Buenos Aires is divided into 48 different neighborhoods or barrios with each offering something unique. Recoleta is one of our favorite neighborhoods to stay. Upscale and with many of the top attractions, it is also easy to navigate to other sections of the city.

If there is one attraction you must visit in Buenos Aires, Recoleta Cemetery would be it. While mesmerizing, eerie and important (you can cry for Evita here), you also might spot some neighborhood kids playing hide and seek.

A few other areas to make sure you explore are:
• San Telmo: This historic neighborhood feels as if it is the cultural heartbeat of the city.
• Palermo: Hip and trendy, you will not run out of options to explore.
• La Boca: Keep to the touristy area, which is instantly recognizable with the colorful painted houses.
• San Nicolas: The world’s widest avenue is lined with can’t miss shops, theaters, Argentine-style pizzerias and the famous Obelisco or obelisk.

Travel Girl Tip: With Buenos Aires as your main travel hub, find a hotel that will hold a bag for you between stays. Also check carry-on bag size restrictions for domestic flights within Argentina. Sizes are typically smaller than that allowed in the U.S.

The Sheer Magnitude
As we flew north from Buenos Aires, nothing could prepare us for the experience of Iguazu Falls. To be honest, when we were told we would need two days to take in the falls, we weren’t convinced. Wrong!

Iguazu Falls is one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature and is the largest waterfall system in the world. Straddling the Argentina-Brazil boarder, Iguazu Falls is made up of roughly 275 different falls.

There are several ways to experience the falls with each capturing more of its full wonder. Hiking the different paths and bridges around the falls offered access to all the breathtaking vistas. Next, we got a bird’s eye view from a helicopter ride over the falls. This was truly the only way to take in the full expanse. And finally, after a short 4×4 ride through the jungle, we hopped aboard a speed boat to the center of it all.

Wine-ing Down
After the adventure of Iguazu Falls, we needed a counterbalance. Our next stop was Mendoza, home of the Malbec, a red intense wine.

Mendoza itself is a lively city with celebrated plazas marking different neighborhoods. It’s easy to enjoy al fresco dining alongside historic architecture and renowned Argentine leather shops.

But the biggest draw for most tourists is the abundant wineries. Located at the foothills of the Andes, the highaltitude region produces world-class wines alongside worldclass views.

Panoramic Patagonia
After leaving Mendoza, we were back in Buenos Aires to change out bags for the second part of our Argentina adventure and an Arctic blast. And a blast it was!

From Buenos Aires we flew into El Calafate, a charming city dotting the steppe-like plains of Patagonia. Located along the southern border of Lake Argentino, even landing at the airport we were gobsmacked by the beauty outside our window.

Calafate itself often felt more like a quaint artisan village than the self-sufficient city it is. While here, make sure to pick up some homemade jelly made from the berry for which the city got its name. The berry, by the way, looks like a blueberry but tastes more like a black currant. And while Argentina is known for its beef, once in the south, lamb becomes the focus for both the fiber arts (such as weaving and knitting) and restaurants.

The most important attraction in this area is Los Glaciares National Park and the Perito Moreno Glacier. Located about 50 miles from Calafate, this is one of the largest and most accessible glaciers in the world — as well as one of only a few glaciers not shrinking. After viewing it from the surrounding platforms, make sure to take a boat ride to get a closer look at the vivid blue hues.

End of the World
From El Calafate, we headed further south, and based on the name of every tourist attraction, we arrived at the “end of the world.” As one of five internationally recognized Antarctic gateway cities, Ushuia is a hub for tourists and adventure seekers.

Tierra del Fuego National Park is just outside of Ushuia and can be reached by vehicle or (of course) by the “Train of the End of the World”. The stunning subantarctic landscape is also where the Pan-American Highway originates. An excursion to Isla Martillo for an encounter with Magellanic, Gentoo, and even King penguins was a true highlight. As a working nature reserve, make a reservation for this guided tour because the number of visitors allowed on the island is limited.

A Natural Wonder
From the end of the world back to the real world, we flew from Ushuia to Buenos Aires for one final weekend and one final toast of Malbec to a country that truly seems to have it all.

And what’s nice is that the Argentines recognize this. From the city to the tropics to the Arctic, the common thread that you will encounter in Argentina is that they want you to love it as much as they do. That pride, that passion, that welcoming spirit, it can often get lost in our world today. Not in Argentina.

But then again you already saw that on full display after the World Cup win. Yet, we can vouch that it is even better in person.

www.argentina.travel/en; Viajemos Turismo

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Our struggle to get to sleep — even after an 11-hour flight — was our first impression of Istanbul, Turkey. The rap music was so loud and pulsating that we called the hotel’s front desk only to be told it was coming from the club across the street not the room next door. Then, at 6 a.m. we were woken by the muezzin calling the faithful to prayers.

And that sums up this wonderful country and why you’ll want to stay awake for all of it. It is a delightfully mysterious blend of ancient history, religion and tradition knocking up against the modern world that provides surprising twists and turns with every step. Whether it be the glass skyscrapers next to a centuries-old mosque with decorative minarets from which the calls to prayer are sung, or a fast food franchise selling cheeseburgers next to its Turkish counterpart where shawarma is sliced on a rotating spit in the window, the old and the new complement each other. It’s a crazy mix — and somehow, it all makes sense.

For instance, for every two women wearing a burqa or niqab covering all but their eyes and walking behind their husbands, we would see another similarly dressed woman walking beside her husband and holding hands. Mostly we saw Turkish women dressed fashionably, with many wearing coordinating hijabs that took the style up a notch while respecting traditional values.

Istanbul
Let’s first start with Istanbul — a city brimming with food, shopping, cobblestone streets, beautiful buildings, museums and chaos. Traffic is everywhere and it’s every driver and pedestrian out for himself or herself. Travelgirl tip: When crossing the street, watch out for motorcycles that seemingly come racing out of nowhere.

Split by the Bosphorus Strait, one side of the city is in Europe, the other in Asia. With a population of more than 15 million, Istanbul is similar to many metropolises with a variety of neighborhoods, each with its own personality and points of interest. It’s easy to get scattered so choose what you absolutely want to do and stick to it.

Our hotel was ideally suited, meaning it was about a block away from one of the city’s main drags — the Istiklal Caddesi Avenue. Think of it as the Champs-Élysées, Fifth Avenue and Grafton Street all rolled up in one. Specialty boutiques selling artisan perfumes, silk scarves and baglama, a folk instrument that is sort of a mix of a guitar and mandolin, line this almost mile-long street. Add to that a variety of mid-size clothing, shoe, souvenir and jewelry shops, along with restaurants and outdoor vendors, and you’ll feel like you are in the midst of a shopping and outdoor festival with every step.

And, the food. Oh my goodness. Small cafes, maybe 10 tables inside and four outside, dot the streets. In some you order off the menu, but most have the menu already prepared and presented in the window. Just point and order.

The street combines two of our favorite things — eating and shopping.

These stores have everything: teas, coffees, fruits, nuts, and desserts including an incredible number of baklava options. Travelgirl tip: Buy or taste only one or two items per store so you can sample as many as possible as you walk!

We were literally a kid in a candy store (well, not literally, but we felt like one) as we would pop in and get dried apricots, pistachios, chocolates and candy. Akide and Lokum (AKA Turkish delight) are the most popular sweets.

Akide is made by boiling honey to almost a caramel consistency, rolled out on marble slats, flavored with mint, cinnamon, pistachios or cloves, and then sliced into hard bite-size pieces. My Sicilian grandmother made something similar but with sesame seeds and almonds. Both were worth risking chipping a tooth. The other, Turkish Delight, is akin to gummy bears with powdered sugar.

Speaking of shopping, no trip would be complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar where you could buy everything from — well, let’s just say everything! Started in the 15th century, the bazaar has about 4,000 stalls, selling jewelry, textiles, metalware, coffee sets and lanterns — again everything. It was overwhelming and it’s best to have a buying game plan otherwise you can get lost or confused. We were on the hunt for a black cashmere pashmina and within 100 feet of entering there were half a dozen booths selling them. All the merchandise looked the same so it’s pretty much just choose a store and start bargaining. We found the perfect pashmina for about $70.

Historic Mosques
After shopping, it was time for a visit to some of the country’s most well-known and revered religious and historical buildings — St. Sophia and the Blue Mosque (also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque) both steps from each other and breathtaking.

The Blue Mosque, built between 1609 and 1616, is currently undergoing a renovation. Hagia Sophia (or St. Sophia) was a Greek Orthodox church built in 537 AD, became a mosque when the Ottoman Empire took over in 1453, and stayed that way until 1935 when it became a museum. This Byzantine wonder is now a mosque again. Its cavernous nave reaches up to 182 feet with stone floors dating back to the 6th century. Mind boggling! Travelgirl tip: Bring a hat and socks. Most religious buildings and museums require women to cover their heads; everyone must remove their shoes.

Although we wanted much more time in Istanbul, we decided to learn more about the country and ventured out on the UNESCO World Heritage Route, which brought us to lesser known cities, ancient ruins and digs, and an integral part of the Cradle of Civilization.

Elaziğ
Elazig is located in the Eastern Anatolia region (about 750 miles from Istanbul) and was founded as an Ottoman military garrison and trading center. Up on a hill is Harput Castle, built by the Urartu Kingdom in the 8th century and now (thankfully) being restored. Other must-dos are a visit to the Seflik Gul House for a glimpse of life in earlier times and dinner at Eskibaglar Vineyard for lamb and really great wine.

Malatya/Arslantepe
Melid, also known as Arslantepe, was an agricultural center in the Fertile Crescent nearly 6,000 years ago, and home of Arslantepe, near Malatya. Malatya, founded in 1838, is overflowing with things to see and do including an Archeology Museum, Photo Camera Museum, Coffee Museum, Textile Museum and the Malatya Cultural House.

The Arslantepe Mound (or Lion Mound) was probably first inhabited during the Copper Age around 8,000 years ago, and was the oldest government complex in the Middle East. If you look closely, you can even see partial murals. At the entrance are copies of stone carvings of lionmen, a Hittite lion from around 1180-700 BC, and the god Tarhunzas. Copper smelting reportedly was invented here, and the first swords were made here.

Adiyaman
Our final stop was at Adiyaman and a visit to the Perre Ancient City, which was already inhabited in Paleolithic times (Old Stone Age —2.5 million to 100,00 BC) as a stop for travelers crossing the Taurus Mountains. Currently undergoing an excavation, the site is open for all to walk around, peer into catacombs, admire the tile floors and let your imagination take you way back in time.

Going to Turkey was like a Magical Mystery Tour. Each day brought new insights — both into the modern world and the ancient — that were unfamiliar and intoxicating. The ancient traditions, not only religious, but also rug making, cooking, music, and sweating in hammams, are still a vital part of the culture and mesh well with everything today’s world offers.

There is so much to take in, explore and understand that you won’t want to miss a minute of it. Now, it’s nap time.

goturkiye.com
geoffreyweill.com

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